DELIVERY CHARGES & FAQs (Frequently asked questions)
We have made some notes below in response to the most common questions asked by our clients when they purchase their polytunnel. We will keep updating this page with data, as the questions become evident. If your question isn’t answered, call or email us and we will get back to you.
Delivery Charges
UK Mainland: Free when ordering a polytunnel kit. (All accessories purchased with the polytunnel kit are also free of delivery charges when ordered with a polytunnel.)
UK Mainland (Accessories): For specific accessory items and/or polythene covers, please add £10 carriage, packing and/or postage charge.
Isle of White: Add £13.00
Scottish Highlands: Add £20.00
Grampians: Add £15.00
Northern Ireland: Add £20.00
Republic of Ireland (Eire): Add £43.00
France: Call us please. Transport costs are very reasonable but are variable in line with the size and weight of the polytunnel kit components.
Polythene: What is the difference between “standard” and “thermal anti-fog” polythene covers?
Have a look at this comparison table for the basics
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Standard
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Thermal A/F
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UV Guarantee
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5 years
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5 years
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Life expectancy
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7-8 years
If fitted tight from start
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7-8 years
If fitted tight from start
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Thickness
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150mu
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180mu
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Thermic
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Slightly thermic
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Approx. 85%
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Anti Fog
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Yes
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Yes
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Anti drip
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Yes
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Yes
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Appearance
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Milky white / Opaque
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Milky white / Opaque
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Heating
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No
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Yes
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Winter frost protection
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Minimal
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Up to 5ºC without heating
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Crops
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Vegetables, Flowers, Soft Fruit
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Vegetables, Flowers, Nursery Stock, Late season and early season crops & organic soft fruit.
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Polythene: How long does the polythene last?
Citadel’s polytunnels are supplied with polythene covers having a 5-year UV guarantee. (It is important to compare this when looking at our competitors’ products...!) The life expectancy of the polythene is around 7-8 years. It is vitally important that the cover is fitted as tight as possible on the frame to ensure that you maximise the mechanical life of the cover.
Conventional vs. Starter Kit: What is the difference between a conventional 6’6” wide, 8’ wide and 10’ wide polytunnel and your equivalent Starter Kit models?
The polytunnel frame and structure is the same. The same robust steel tube and 5-year guarantee polythene is supplied. We created the “starter kit” range in order that a buyer can have, in one package, the frame, anti hot spot tapes, polythene cover, door frames and door kits. Everything included to complete your polytunnel project.
If you chose a “conventional” tunnel, you need to consider anti hot spot tapes and doors as separate purchases.
Ground Fixing: How does the tunnel stay on the ground?
There are a number of options, linked to how you wish to fix your polythene, as follows:
Conventional & Starter Kit Models
1. STANDARD KIT METHOD: Ground tubes and trench Buried Polythene: Ground tubes are knocked 2’ into the ground. The hoop frames sit into the ground tubes. The polythene is stretched over the frame and buried in a 12” x 12” trench around the perimeter of the tunnel.
2. ALTERNATIVE - Ground tubes and polythene battened to a wooden base rail that is clamped to the ground tube: Ground tubes are knocked approximately 2’ into the ground leaving approximately 3” above ground. In this case, the ground tubes should then be concreted in using a quick setting concrete product, similar to that used for fence posts. The hoop frames sit into the ground tubes. A wooden base rail is clamped to the outside of the ground tubes. The polythene is stretched over the frame and using wooden battens, is clamped to the top of the timber base rail. (In this case, the clamps and timber can be supplied at extra cost. Quick setting concrete or similar is not supplied by Citadel.)
Space Saver Models
1. STANDARD KIT METHOD: Verticals are knocked into the ground and concreted in using a quick setting concrete product, similar to that used for fence posts. In the case of the Space Saver, therefore, the verticals are always concrete secured into the ground so the choice of either trench burying the polythene or battening it to a timber base rail is available. In the case of fitting a timber base rail, the clamps and timber can be supplied at extra cost. Quick setting concrete or similar is not supplied by Citadel.)
2. ALTERNATIVE - Ground tubes and trench Buried Polythene: Ground tubes are knocked 2’ into the ground. The verticals sit into the ground tubes and are fixed into the ground tube using a nut & bolt. The polythene is stretched over the frame and buried in a 12” x 12” trench around the perimeter of the tunnel.
3. ALTERNATIVE - Ground tubes and polythene battened to a wooden base rail that is clamped to the ground tube: Ground tubes are knocked approximately 2’ into the ground leaving approximately 3” above ground. In this case, the ground tubes should then be concreted in using a quick setting concrete product, similar to that used for fence posts. The verticals sit into the ground tubes and are fixed into the ground tube using a nut & bolt. A wooden base rail is clamped to the outside of the ground tubes. The polythene is stretched over the frame and using wooden battens, is clamped to the top of the timber base rail. (In this case, the clamps and timber can be supplied at extra cost. Quick setting concrete or similar is not supplied by Citadel.)
4. ALTERNATIVE - Base plates (Polytunnel sitting on a hard standing): The base plates are positioned and secured to the ground (hard standing) using anchor bolts. The verticals are inserted into the base plates and locked in using the integrated grub screws. The base plates have an integrated vertical plate onto which the timber base rail can be secured. The polythene is stretched over the frame and using wooden battens, is clamped to the top of the timber base rail. (In this case, the base plates, clamps and timber can be supplied at extra cost. Quick setting concrete or similar is not supplied by Citadel.)
Polytunnel Positioning / Citing: What is the best location for my polytunnel?
We would suggest an east/west aspect with the sun running end to end over the tunnel to maximise sunshine and daylight. This is not essential as the tunnel is very effective at drawing and processing the sun’s rays.
A corner plot with some shelter but nothing overhanging the tunnel is ideal.
A prevailing wind is best hitting the tunnel side on and rolling up and over the structure. (In the case of very windy and exposed positions, consider: [1] Bracing kits (end-to-end) to prevent hoops from flexing together and [2] crop bars that are practical for hanging and tying-off inside the tunnel but also give extra roof strength and support, acting as a roof eave.)
Allow for access / ventilation at both ends. 2-3 feet of free space around the perimeter of your tunnel is advisable and remember that you need at least a couple of feet for trench burying your polythene.